Destinations

Caribbean

Islands of sand and rainforest, French, Dutch and British by history, taken slowly and often two or three at a time.

The Caribbean is a sea of islands, and the differences between them matter more than the brochures suggest. Some are flat and fringed with sand, built for doing very little; others are volcanic and covered in rainforest, with peaks to climb and hot springs to soak in. History has given each its own accent. Antigua and the British Virgin Islands carry an English inheritance, Martinique, Guadeloupe and St Barth are French, Aruba speaks Dutch and Papiamento, and one small island is split between France and the Netherlands.

The range is wider than many expect. There are the old quarters of San Juan and Havana, the sailing grounds of the Virgin Islands and the Grenadines, reef walls and wrecks for divers in the Caymans and off Aruba, and islands that take their cooking very seriously. Bermuda, out in the Atlantic, is often grouped with these islands and shares much of their ease, with a subtropical climate of its own.

The weather follows a simple pattern. The dry season, from about December to April, brings the most settled weather and the busiest resorts. From June to November the islands are greener, warmer and more humid, with short tropical showers and lower rates. The Atlantic hurricane season runs officially from the start of June to the end of November, and is most active from mid August to mid October. Aruba, in the far south, is semi-arid and sunny for most of the year.

Most Caribbean journeys are simple in shape: one island, one house or hotel, a week or 10 days of sea and sun. The more interesting ones combine two or three islands, linked by short flights or by boat. St Barth pairs well with St Martin, the Grenadines are seen most easily from a yacht, and a few days in Havana or Old San Juan give a beach stay some depth.

Journeys

Stays

An infinity pool lit at dusk, a pavilion and palms against a pink sky.

Calabash Hotel

Calabash Hotel sits on the calm, sheltered beach at L'Anse aux Épines on Grenada's southern coast, a family-run Relais & Châteaux hotel owned and managed by the Garbutt family since 1987.

L'Anse aux Épines, St George's, Grenada

Turquoise water over the reef below a green hillside on Anguilla.

Cap Juluca, A Belmond Hotel

Cap Juluca is a Belmond resort of white Greco-Moorish buildings along the curve of Maundays Bay, near the southern tip of Anguilla.

Maundays Bay, Anguilla

A volcano rising behind cloud above yellow colonial houses with tiled roofs.

Carlisle Bay

Carlisle Bay was opened by the British hotelier Gordon Campbell Gray on Antigua's south coast, and it has long been admired for solving the family resort's central problem: families and couples have separate wings, each with its own beach, and the restaurants keep family hours.

Old Road, Antigua

The La Case pool lined with loungers and parasols, with the sea and hills beyond.

Cheval Blanc St-Barth

Cheval Blanc St-Barth began in 1991 as the Hôtel Saint-Barth Isle de France on Flamands Bay, and reopened under LVMH's Cheval Blanc name in 2014, the year after the group bought it.

Flamands Bay, St Barthélemy

A white beach and turquoise sea at Punta Cana under a blue sky.

Eden Roc Cap Cana

Eden Roc Cap Cana sits within the Cap Cana estate at the eastern tip of the Dominican Republic, between the Caribbean and a landscape of palms and lagoons, and Virtuoso notes that it is the only member of Relais & Châteaux in the country.

Cap Cana, Juanillo, La Altagracia, Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

The white villa and its infinity pool behind a private beach on Providenciales, Turks and Caicos.

Emerald Bay

Emerald Bay is a new house on the south coast of Providenciales, reached by a single road, which keeps it private.

South coast, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos Islands

A private pool on a timber deck framed by palms, looking down a green valley to the sea.

Hotel Le Toiny

Hotel Le Toiny has been a St Barths favourite since 1992, on the island's quiet south-east coast above Anse de Toiny, a beach the local surfers largely keep to themselves.

Anse de Toiny, St Barthélemy

A suite open to the view on one side, its plunge pool and swing looking out over the sea.

Ladera Resort

Ladera sits on the volcanic ridge between Saint Lucia's two Pitons, about 1,000 feet above the Caribbean and just round the mountain from Soufrière, and it is the only resort within the Pitons UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Soufrière, Saint Lucia

The pool running down towards the beach between thatched shades, the sea beyond.

Pine Cay

Pine Cay is a car-free island of about 800 acres in the Turks and Caicos, less than a mile wide and about two miles long, on the edge of a barrier reef.

Pine Cay, Turks and Caicos

Boats on a blue sea under a sky of white clouds.

Quintessence Hotel

Quintessence Hotel stands directly above the white sand of Long Bay Beach on Anguilla, the island five miles from St Maarten and 18 miles from St Barths.

Long Bay, West End, Anguilla

The infinity pool and timber deck below the villa, with the sea and offshore islets beyond, in St. Barthélemy.

Roxane

Roxane is a six-bedroom villa on the hillside at Gustavia, on St Barthélemy, built across two buildings with wide views of the ocean and the islets offshore.

Gustavia, St Barthélemy

Villas among the trees on clifftops above a beach and clear water, with green hills behind.

Secret Bay

Secret Bay stands on a clifftop promontory near Portsmouth, on Dominica's north-west coast, where the rainforest runs down to the Caribbean.

Portsmouth, Dominica

Clear blue water off Eleuthera.

The Cove Eleuthera

The Cove sits between two sandy coves near Gregory Town, on the inner arc of northern Eleuthera, an island about one mile wide and 110 miles long that lies some 50 miles east of Nassau.

Queen's Highway, Gregory Town, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Paradise Island Lighthouse at the entrance to Nassau Harbour.

The Cove at Atlantis

The Cove opened on March 28, 2007, as the all-suite hotel within Atlantis in the Bahamas, with interiors by Jeffrey Beers International and Hirsch Bedner Associates.

Paradise Island, Bahamas

Paradise Island Lighthouse at the entrance to Nassau Harbour.

The Reef at Atlantis

The Reef opened in 2007 as part of the third phase of Atlantis, alongside The Cove and Dolphin Cay, and was renovated by Hirsch Bedner Associates in 2019.

Paradise Island, Bahamas

Wind-bent palms on the sand at Eagle Beach, Aruba.

The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba

The Ritz-Carlton, Aruba opened on November 22, 2013, on Palm Beach, and the island itself is its first advantage.

Palm Beach, Aruba

Sunset over the sea and the rocky shore of Grand Cayman.

The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman

The Ritz-Carlton, Grand Cayman opened on December 15, 2005, on a 144-acre estate running between Seven Mile Beach and the lagoon, with interiors by Champalimaud Design.

Seven Mile Beach, Grand Cayman

Paradise Island Lighthouse at the entrance to Nassau Harbour.

The Royal at Atlantis

The Royal opened on December 11, 1998, the twin towers at the heart of Atlantis, joined by the 10-room Bridge Suite with its grand piano and 22-carat gold chandelier.

Paradise Island, Bahamas

Aerial view of a curved pool, loungers and parasols above a palm-lined beach and turquoise sea.

The Shore Club Turks and Caicos

The Shore Club was the first resort of its kind on Long Bay Beach, on the south-east coast of Providenciales.

Long Bay Beach, Providenciales, Turks and Caicos

A forested green headland rising from deep blue sea under scattered cloud.

ÀNI Dominican Republic

ÀNI Dominican Republic is taken by one group at a time: an estate of just over four acres on its own peninsula on the Amber Coast, between Samaná and Cabarete, with views across 270 degrees of the Atlantic.

Cabrera, Amber Coast, Dominican Republic

The countries

Anguilla

Best time: Dec to Apr

Anguilla covers about 35 square miles in the British West Indies, and most people come for the beaches, which are among the finest in the Caribbean. Rendezvous Bay, Long Bay and the villages of the West End and Sandy Ground hold much of the island's life. Small cays offshore, among them Prickly Pear, Sandy Island and Dog Island, make easy boat trips. The island has a serious food culture, with everything from beach bars to formal dining rooms, and local sport means boat racing and dominoes. It suits a week of quiet days and long dinners.

Antigua and Barbuda

Best time: Dec to Apr

Two islands share this flag, and locals like to say there are 365 beaches between them. Antigua is the livelier of the pair, with St John's, English Harbour and a calendar built around Sailing Week and Carnival, plus a Culinary Month for anyone who travels to eat. Barbuda is quieter and far less visited, known for shores of pink sand. Expect British colonial character and plenty of rum on Antigua, and diving, kayaking and hiking for anyone who wants more than the beach. It works well for couples and for families.

Aruba

Best time: Year-round

Aruba is a small, mostly flat island of about 70 square miles, some 15 miles off the coast of Venezuela. Its climate is semi-arid and sunny, with trade winds that shape the shoreline and keep the heat in check. There are more than 20 public beaches and coves, from the calm water at Baby Beach to the windier northern shore, and divers come for the wrecks offshore. Inland, Arikok National Park covers rough desert country. Dutch and Papiamento are the official languages, and the kitchen draws on nearly 100 nationalities, with dishes such as keshi yena.

Barbados

Best time: Dec to Apr

Barbados mixes island ease with a strong sense of its own history. It calls itself the birthplace of rum, and its rum shops are part of the island's story. Bridgetown, Holetown, Speightstown and Port St Charles are the names to know, and the island is divided into 11 parishes, each with its own character. Crop Over is the great festival of the year, and music runs through island life. Days can move from kiteboarding or surfing to afternoon tea, and Barbados markets itself firmly on its cooking.

Bermuda

Best time: Apr to Nov

Bermuda sits alone in the North Atlantic, about 600 miles from the nearest mainland and around 90 minutes by air from New York. It covers only 21 square miles, divided into nine parishes, and is known above all for the pink sand beaches of its South Shore. The climate is subtropical, and the sea is warm enough for swimming from about April to November. Ashore there is the Royal Naval Dockyard, the pastel streets of Hamilton, the historic town of St George's and the Crystal Caves. The mood is relaxed, with a British accent.

British Virgin Islands

Best time: Dec to Apr

The British Virgin Islands are a scatter of more than 50 islands and cays, with calm bays that have made them one of the great sailing grounds of the Caribbean. Tortola is the largest and holds the capital, Road Town. On Virgin Gorda, The Baths is a beach of giant granite boulders with pools of sea between them. Anegada is the only coral island in this volcanic chain, while smaller islands such as Jost Van Dyke, Norman Island and Cooper Island make easy day sails. Sailing between anchorages is the natural way to see them.

Cayman Islands

Best time: Nov to Apr

Three islands, three moods. Grand Cayman is the busy one, with Seven Mile Beach, George Town and a food scene that bills itself as the culinary capital of the Caribbean. Cayman Brac, named for its bluff, is the adventurous one, with rare plants and wildlife, while Little Cayman is small, quiet and remote. Diving is the great draw: the islands count 365 dive sites, with coral reefs and wrecks such as the Captain Keith Tibbetts, and Stingray City makes a fine family outing. The dry season runs from November to April.

Cuba

Best time: Dec to Apr

Cuba is the largest island of the Antilles, at the centre of an archipelago of more than 4,000 cays and islets. Havana is the place to start, and the old city rewards several days. Beyond it lie Viñales and Las Terrazas to the west, the colonial town of Trinidad, Santiago de Cuba in the east and the beaches of Varadero and the cays. Cultural connections are the reason to come: music, festivals such as Jazz Plaza in Havana, and time spent with Cubans themselves. A trip here needs careful planning and a good local guide.

Curaçao

Best time: Year-round

Curaçao is a colourful island in the southern Caribbean, with Willemstad as its main town. The coast is broken into beaches and coves, some of the finest in the region, and diving and snorkelling are a large part of any stay. Christoffel National Park covers the island's wilder country, and art, museums and heritage sites fill the days ashore. The island has close communities, a busy calendar of concerts and festivals, and a kitchen shaped by many cultures. Water temperatures stay at around 81 degrees Fahrenheit, and it combines easily with Aruba.

Dominica

Best time: Dec to Apr

Dominica calls itself the Nature Island, and it earns the name. This is an island of rainforest, volcanoes and hot springs, closer in spirit to a national park than a beach resort, and it attracts people who want to be outdoors. Roseau, Portsmouth and the Cabrits headland are the main points of arrival. Most days are spent walking, swimming, soaking in thermal springs and then resting somewhere small with a view, and wellness is part of the offer too. It suits active travellers and anyone who wants the Caribbean without the crowds.

Dominican Republic

Best time: Dec to Apr

The Dominican Republic has one of the widest ranges of any Caribbean destination. Punta Cana and La Romana in the east are built around beaches and golf, with jungle not far behind; Samaná has Taíno rock art in its caves, and Puerto Plata and Cabrera lie along the north. In Santo Domingo, the Museum of the Dominican Man tells the story of the Taíno. Communities from Sosúa to Constanza and San Pedro de Macorís reflect a varied history, Carnival takes over in February, and the cooking, music and dancing are worth seeking out.

Grenada

Best time: Dec to Apr

Grenada is known as the Spice Island, and its lush, forested interior is as much of a draw as the coast. Inland there are peaks to climb and 14 waterfalls with pools to swim in. Grand Anse is the famous beach, and offshore lies the first underwater sculpture park in the world, along with wreck and reef dives. Chocolate and spices are grown and made here, oil down is the national dish, and Spice Mas, the August carnival, is the island's great party. Carriacou and Petite Martinique, the sister islands, are rebuilding after Hurricane Beryl.

Guadeloupe

Best time: Dec to May

Guadeloupe is a French archipelago shaped like a butterfly. Basse-Terre, one wing, is mountainous, with La Soufrière volcano, a national park and waterfalls; Grande-Terre, the other, has the beaches. Smaller islands complete the picture: Les Saintes, Marie-Galante and La Désirade, each slower than the last. Creole culture runs deep, with Carnival from January to March and a blues festival on Marie-Galante in May. The dry season, December to May, brings calm seas for diving and the clearest conditions for hiking the volcano.

Jamaica

Best time: Dec to Apr

Jamaica is a big island with very different corners. Negril has seven miles of white sand and long sunsets; Montego Bay and Ocho Rios are busier, with beaches, rivers and attractions; Port Antonio is quiet and creative, and the South Coast is rural and community minded. Kingston, the capital, is the place to understand the music, for this is the birthplace of reggae. Up in the Blue Mountains, the coffee that carries their name is grown. The food alone is reason to come, from ackee and saltfish to conch fritters.

Martinique

Best time: Dec to Apr

Martinique is a mountainous French island where Creole culture, rum and food matter as much as the beaches. The wild north climbs towards Mount Pelée through forests, waterfalls and green peaks. The centre holds Fort-de-France and Trois-Îlets, and the south has beaches such as Les Salines at Sainte-Anne and the coves of Les Anses d'Arlet and Le Diamant. Rum distilleries are part of any visit. Known as the island of flowers, it is also the island of the poet Aimé Césaire, and its local life is busy and sociable.

Puerto Rico

Best time: Dec to Apr

Puerto Rico is a U.S. territory, so Americans travel without a passport, and it is one of the easiest islands to reach, with hundreds of weekly flights. Old San Juan has centuries-old fortresses and colourful colonial streets. El Yunque National Forest is described as the only tropical rainforest in the United States, and the island has three bioluminescent bays. Vieques and Culebra lie offshore for quieter beaches, the west coast is for surfing, and the central mountains grow coffee. Salsa, bomba, rum and slow-roasted lechón complete the picture.

Saint Martin

Best time: Dec to Apr

Saint Martin is the French side of an island shared with Dutch Sint Maarten, the smallest piece of land in the world divided between two nations. Its capital, Marigot, has 19th-century houses along Rue de la République and a busy harbour. Grand Case is the island's dining village, with formal restaurants and simple roadside grills on the same street. Orient Bay and Baie Longue are among the beaches, and the crossing to the Dutch side takes no time at all.

Sint Maarten

Best time: Dec to Apr

Sint Maarten is the Dutch half of a shared island, with the French side, Saint Martin, just across the border. Philipsburg, the capital, has colourful houses, murals, shops and restaurants along Great Bay Beach. Maho Beach is known for aircraft passing low overhead on their approach to the airport, and Simpson Bay is another of the island's hubs. Sailing, diving, fishing and windsurfing are all on hand, and the island is the usual starting point for the short flight to St Barth.

St Barthélemy

Best time: Dec to Apr

St Barthélemy, or St Barth, is a small French island with a chic, worldly air. Gustavia, the harbour town, is the place for shops, restaurants and people watching. Beaches such as Saline, Gouverneur and Corossol each have their own character, and the food is as French as the language. The sailing calendar draws an international crowd for the Bucket regatta and Les Voiles de St Barth, and there is a gourmet festival too. Most visitors arrive on a short flight from Sint Maarten or come across by ferry.

St Kitts and Nevis

Best time: Dec to Apr

These two islands sit side by side in the northern Lesser Antilles. St Kitts has Mount Liamuiga, the fortress on Brimstone Hill, a scenic railway on the old sugar line and Romney Manor with its gardens; Cockleshell Beach looks straight across to Nevis. Nevis is smaller and gentler, with Nevis Peak at its centre, golden and black sand beaches, plantation inns and no traffic lights. Alexander Hamilton was born in Charlestown in 1757, and the Bath Hotel of 1778 was the first hotel in the Caribbean. Turtles nest on Nevis in summer.

St Lucia

Best time: Dec to Apr

St Lucia is defined by the Pitons, the volcanic peaks that rise near Soufrière. The island is green and mountainous, with rainforest to walk or zipline through, volcanic mud baths and mineral springs, and trails such as Tet Paul for views of the peaks. Castries, Rodney Bay, Gros Islet and Marigot Bay are the other names to know, and most travellers come for a secluded stay rather than a busy resort. The dry season, December to April, is the peak, while the summer brings the Jazz and Arts Festival and quieter resorts.

St Vincent and the Grenadines

Best time: Dec to Apr

This chain of 32 islands and cays begins with St Vincent, which is green and volcanic, with rainforest and black sand. The Grenadines to the south are the opposite: small islands ringed by reef, with white beaches and turquoise lagoons. Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau and Union Island each have their own pace, and the Tobago Cays are for snorkelling and long days on the water. Sailing, diving and regattas shape the calendar, and moving between the islands by yacht is the natural way to travel here.

The Bahamas

Best time: Dec to Apr

The Bahamas spreads over some 100,000 square miles of clear Atlantic water, with 16 main islands among more than 700. Each has its own character. The Exumas are known for the swimming pigs of Big Major Cay and the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park; Eleuthera and Harbour Island have colourful New England style towns and pink sand; Andros, the largest island, is full of blue holes and reef. Long Island has Dean's Blue Hole, the second deepest in the world, and Inagua holds some 80,000 flamingos. Nassau gives the city end of the trip.

Turks and Caicos Islands

Best time: Jan to Apr

The Turks and Caicos are more than 40 islands and cays in the Atlantic, southeast of The Bahamas, ringed by one of the largest barrier reefs in the region. Providenciales is the hub, home to Grace Bay, the most celebrated beach in the country. Beyond Provo the islands get quieter: Grand Turk for diving, Salt Cay for whale watching from January to March, and South Caicos with the remains of the old salt trade. Rain is light all year, and the sea sits in the mid 80s Fahrenheit.

U.S. Virgin Islands

Best time: Dec to Apr

St Thomas, St John and St Croix make up the U.S. Virgin Islands, with tiny Water Island alongside. They are close to home for American travellers, yet they feel a world away. St Thomas is the busiest, and St John is small, with Cruz Bay as its harbour town. St Croix has the yellow walls of the Christiansted National Historic Site and the town of Frederiksted, along with old forts and a lively arts scene. Snorkelling over coral, beaches and island food fill most days.

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